Editing Cheapo paint job (section)
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===Application=== If you are considering using Rust-oleum, it is highly recommended that you spend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a garden tractor or spare car hood in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car. Amateurs have applied Rust-oleum by spraying, rolling, and foam brushing. The last two methods will require significant sanding in an attempt to remove the roller or foam brush marks (bristle brushes are impossible; forget them!). Also when rolling or brushing to get good results one should expect to put down up to ten VERY thin (reduced) coats of paint. However, regardless of the care taken to apply your primer (such as "Ultimate Finish") and final coats of gloss enamel, rolling or foam brushing marks will definitely show up when applying the gloss enamel! It will shock you! Best results for both their primer and gloss enamels can be achieved with a spray gun and compressor of reasonable quality. "Decent" results (you don't really care how it looks, just cover the rust and dents, and move on to something else in you life) can be achieved using the roller or foam brush application methods. Another method some use is purchasing Rust-Oleum in 12 ounce spray cans. At $25-30+ for a 6 can pack, your best bet is Rust-Oleum's Ultimate Finish rusty metal primer. Offers decent coverage per can. Over spray with the gloss enamels is high, so coverage is much less. Definitely wear a decent mask with the gloss enamels. Then throw it away or change the organic filter(s) (more at '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage#Respiratory protection|Respiratory protection]]''' in the Crankshaft Coalition wiki page, ''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage]]''). Color choice is limited. Cheapest prices are for white or black.
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