Editing Cheapo paint job (section)
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===Rustoleum=== ====Pros==== *Rustoleum can resist chalking and weathering almost as well as factory enamel paint if properly cared for. Many people tend to judge Rustoleum by how it weathers on outdoor equipment and its other more usual applications. But no one buffs and waxes the wrought iron railings on their steps or outdoor oil tanks, so the paint tends to suffer. *Until the early 1960's, many OEM's used alkyd enamels to paint their cars, which were quite similar to what Rustoleum sells today. Some import manufacturers continued using alkyd enamels into at least the 1980's. For example a 1981 Isuzu pickup will have a buck tag underhood clearly stating "alkyd enamel" as the OEM paint. Dupont's website has [http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/common/about/dr-history.html a small history section] that makes mention of their alkyd enamel automotive paint, "Dulux". *It's inexpensive and widely available. *Rustoleum is a one part paint, does not require the troublesome clear coat known to come off of vehicles requiring expensive stripping and repainting. Clear coat over time has a significant failure rate as seen on older cars. *Unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum spray, roll and/or brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. *Though Rustoleum paints are based on alkyd enamels, a process that had been abandoned to new processes that included clear coats, this method remains a viable method for an inexpensive home project to put paint on a vehicle. Plus, using enamel is generally far less toxic than using a urethane based paint, particularly in an enclosed environment like a garage. *Using Rustoleum allows at least three methods for application: **Roller. Rather labor intensive, but can have very acceptable results **Rattle can (spray can). Spray cans provide a means to apply paint by spray methods without requiring the otherwise expensive hardware that a shop might need. **Spray gun with compressor (figure $200), which is by far the best way to go ====Rustoleum label info==== *Rustoleum Automotive Paint products for an inexpensive method to apply an easy professional look with Rust-Oleum Auto Paints * Durable, long lasting finishes resist rust, nicks and scratches * Leaves a smooth, even finish * UV and weather resistant for superior color and sheen *Rust-Oleum Auto Enamel Spray provides a long-lasting color finish with superior gloss retention. It’s durable long lasting finish resists nicks and scratches. *Brilliant metallic finish. Sand down to bare metal. Otherwise, marks and imperfections will readily show. Avoid rolling or foam brush. *Stops Rust formula. Available in quarts or gallons for some of their colors. Requires a spray gun and compressor for best results. *Any-angle spray technology. * Rustoleum Automotive Enamel Paints, spray or can, Ideal for use on Automobiles, Cycles, Trucks, ATV's, Engines, Wheels, Wheel Wells, Bumpers, Truck Beds, Car Underbody, Plastic, Metal, Car Interior Accessories, And much more! "ref A" *Allows inexpensive color changes or body enhancing quickly without the Shop high labor charges and expensive paint cost allowing owner to be creative and do his/her own labor. ====Cons==== *Rustoleum frankly can not compare with a "catalyzed" or "two part" automotive paint for durability and hardness. *Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearance.
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