Camshaft install tips and tricks

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(→Engine RPM for break in)
(→Engine RPM for break in)
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Used lifters should only be used on the very same cam, in the very same block, and in the very same positions they were removed from. Chances that the lifter bores will be machined on the very same angles on a different block as the block the lifters came out of are about equal to you hitting the lottery. If you purchase a used flat tappet cam from a swap meet or yard sale, plan on using it for a doorstop.
 
Used lifters should only be used on the very same cam, in the very same block, and in the very same positions they were removed from. Chances that the lifter bores will be machined on the very same angles on a different block as the block the lifters came out of are about equal to you hitting the lottery. If you purchase a used flat tappet cam from a swap meet or yard sale, plan on using it for a doorstop.
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'''17.  Actual installation of the camshaft into the block.'''
 
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On a complete engine assembly, it is often helpful to install the camshaft BEFORE the crankshaft; in many cases the cam would be the first part to be installed by the assembler after "final cleaning" of the block. (The cam bearings are likely to be installed by the machine shop.)  If this is the case, it is very helpful to--if possible--set the block on the floor bellhousing-side DOWN, so the block is vertical.  The camshaft then can be lowered into the block straight down, and there's minimal effort needed to assure that the cam lobes and cam journals DO NOT nick the bearings.  If the cam MUST be installed horizontally, it is almost mandatory to use a "handle" on the front of the cam, and to take particular care that the cam doesn't bang into, or scrape across the bearings.  Whether vertical or horizontal, if the crankshaft isn't in the way, it's easy to guide the cam through the bearings with one hand while supporting the front end of the cam with the other.
 
  
 
==Miscellaneous==
 
==Miscellaneous==

Revision as of 13:25, 16 December 2011

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