Editing Building a new shop (section)
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==Foundation and floor== An outer perimeter of rebar is a must to tie all corners of the slab together. When any openings are encountered, you should double the rebar and thicken the width and depth of the concrete and pour a grade beam to help bear the weight and anchor the side posts of opening to the slab. Wire mesh for re-enforcing the slab should be tied to the perimeter rebar and rebar 'chairs' should lift the rebar to float in the middle of the concrete slab. Do not rely on someone lifting the wire mesh as you are pouring. Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh, and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. Risers should be rigid conduit for mechanical protection but horizontal runs work better in plastic conduit; no galvanic reaction takes place with the cement and if wires go to ground inside the pipe (not likely, but it happens) they won't weld themselves to the inside walls. That means you can always pull them back out. Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of the building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment. If you are considering a car lift or heavy vehicles, you should plan on a slab thickness of at least 6" rather than 4". Tell the concrete installer that you want a "smooth' floor. Try sweeping rough concrete and then try smooth. You will never want rough again. If you are in a frost zone you should probably inquire about "frost walls." Frost footings are dictated by code where applicable, typically slab on grade shops or garages over 28' x 28' will require footings, again this is dictated by code and is dependent on typical frost depths in your area. This link is a contour map of the United States showing average frost depths encountered: http://www.soundfootings.com/pdf/US_Map_Frost_DepthAVG.pdf. This will keep the outer walls from lifting and cracking with the frost. This is also the time to consider floor drains. Ask the floor installer about it. He should have good ideas and it won't cost that much. If you are bound by building codes inquire with your building inspections department about drains.
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