Editing 383/388 Chevy stroker (section)
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==Clearances== There should be a minimum of 0.050" clearance between the parts of the reciprocating assembly and anything else if it's a steel rod engine. You can go a little tighter than this between the crankshaft counterweights and the block. Generally a SBC 383 stroker will have the chance of hitting metal to metal in a three places: * Camshaft to connecting rod * Crankshaft to block * Pan rail ===Camshaft to connecting rod=== This is the most likely place to have interference. The rods that are most likely to be too close to, or to contact the cam are cylinder numbers 1, 2, 5, and 6. Using a reduced base circle cam will not necessarily help- the clearances have to be physically checked for all the rods. It is better to use an aftermarket 'stroker' rod from the get-go instead of having to grind on another type of rod/rod nut to gain enough clearance. Using a capscrew rod will sometimes be enough, but they still must be checked. A long, thick tie wrap can be used as a sort of feeler gauge. If it gets caught while checking, no damage. ARP [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6027 part number 134-6027] is for a set of rod bolts with additional clearance at their heads to help cam to rod clearance problems. They are for use with a factory 5.7" rod or the equivalent. For clearance, I-beam rods are much easier to use than H-beam rods. Another option for increased clearance are small base circle camshafts which are designed specifically to give the additional crankshaft counterweight clearance. If using the 3.80" stroke crankshaft this is a must even when aftermarket stroke rods are used. ===Crankshaft and rod to block=== [[File:383 pan rail.jpg|thumb|350px||Bottom of block clearanced for rod nut]] The places for clearance problems between the crank and block is at the bottoms of the cylinders and the pan rails. If any metal has to be removed, remove the least amount needed, or else the water jacket could be hit. Same thing here as was said above, regarding stroker rods. They will have a much better chance of having enough clearance without any modifications to them '''or''' the block. The place where the rod hits is the nut (if a nut and bolt rod big end) or the capscrew. Grinding on either can be an iffy proposition, so only remove what's absolutely necessary and not a bit more. If using the stock SBC 400 rod (5.565"), it will not need any clearancing. But 383 stroker cranks that use the 400 rod are not that readily available and the rod length-to-stroke ratio is not favorable. <br style="clear:both"/> We have found the thickness of the wire of a paper clip for clearances of the rods on the pan rail is just about right.
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